Turkey - Myra - Spring 2004

Just before leaving Kemer for the season, we had one more “Sunday” outing - the site of the ancient Roman city of Myra, now known as Demre.  We headed out by bus to the start of the walk, which was located in the middle of nowhere.  As always, trusting our leaders Bob & Jean, we trekked away from the road with no indication that our destination would eventually appear.  We walked on a well-trod path, eventually coming to a large farm whose owners welcomed us to walk across the property.  Another mile or so of up and down, and we came to a large clearing with an ancient cistern that was the beginning of the Myra site.  It was here that we met a small family of tortoises. 

A further mile brought us to the edge of the valley across which was the castle that dominated Myra in its heyday.  This was particularly valuable real estate as the huge plain below the castle was (and still is) very fertile.  Much of south-western Turkey’s fruits and vegetables are grown right here.

Mosaic from Church of St. Nicholas

We clambered down the hill, then up again to the castle, then down again to the theatre.  Finally, it was time for lunch - though Garry needed a small rest before thinking about food!

Our picnic area was surrounded by dozens of carvings that were once part of the structures around the theatre.

Once we were fed and rested, our bus met us near the theatre’s exit, and we moved on to the present town of Demre, where the old Church of St. Nicholas was initially built in 343 AD.  It has been reconstructed many times since then, and though not huge or even very elegant, its mosaics are well preserved and quite beautiful. 

And its Santa Claus legend (see below) is of course its primary draw.

The Legend of Father Christmas

The legend of Father Christmas (Santa Claus or Noel Baba in Turkish) is believed to have begun in Demre when a 4th-century Christian bishop, later St. Nicholas, gave anonymous gifts to dowryless village girls.  He would drop bags of coins down the chimneys of their houses, and this ‘gift from heaven’ would allow them to marry, which is perhaps why he’s the patron saint of virgins.  He went on to become the patron saint of sailors, children, pawnbrokers, Holy Russia and others.

(excerpted from Lonely Planet Turkey)