Turkey - Gallipoli - August 2004

From Bozcaada, we left the boat for a day to travel over to the Gallipoli peninsula.  This is the land mass that forms the north-western side of the Dardanelles, which has always been the key to Istanbul.  The navy that could force the straits had a good chance at capturing the capital of the Eastern European world.  Many fleets have tried, and most have failed.  The most famous of these was the Allied fleet in WWI.  Today the Gallipoli battlefields are peaceful spaces, but the battles fought here nearly a century ago are still alive in the memories of many people, both Turkish and foreign.  Gallipoli, and more particularly ANZAC Cove, has a special significance for Australians and New Zealanders, thousands of whom make a yearly pilgrimage here. 

Our visit to the peninsula was not as complex as that, but it did require some logistical effort.  First, a dawn ferry to the mainland (1/2 hour).  Then, a mini-bus into Çannakale (2 hours).  Then, a ferry across the Dardanelles to Eceabat on the peninsula.  In that small town, we tried to rent a car, but discovered that they don’t rent cars from there any more.  However, a local taxi driver offered us a tour of 3-4 hours for about 80 million TL (about $50USD).  We were a bit sceptical, but the tour turned out to be excellent.  After our tour, we retraced our many steps, arriving back at the boat in time for a very late dinner.

The tour was complete and very well done.  Our driver, Anil Dinç, was born in Eceabat, has been giving taxi tours for years, and knows everything one could want to know about the historical events.  We learned much about the various battles, about the people who fought them, and about the extraordinary leadership of Mustafa Kemal (Atatürk). 

We visited the small museum at Kabatepe, which is filled with artifacts found on the battle sites, including some clothing that Atatürk wore.  Anil took us to 5 of the cemeteries, each similar but with its own special characteristics.  The largest has nearly 3,000 burials; the smallest 27.  The largest memorial is Helles Memorial, with over 20,000 names.  At 30m in height, it sits on the southern tip of the peninsula, and is seen by all ships entering the Dardanelles.

One of the most meaningful monuments is at Anzac Cove, where Atatürk’s words from 1934 are memorialized in stone:

“Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives … you are now living in the soil of a friendly country.  Therefore rest in peace.  There is no difference between the Johnnies and Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours… You, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears, your sons are now lying in our bosom, and are at peace.  After having lost their lives in this land, they have become our sons as well.”

There are so many monuments on the peninsula.  The other one that really caught our attention is a statue of a Turkish soldier carrying an injured Allied soldier across the battleground between their trenches during a temporary ceasefire.  It seems that the soldiers on both sides were people who in some cases even became friends, and at the very least, respected each other. 

Much has been written about these battles, these soldiers and their leaders.  There are undoubtedly sites on the internet that can lead you to more information.  An excellent book, Birds Without Wings, by Louis de Bernières (Corelli’s Mandolin), is a fictional story woven with the facts of Atatürk’s life that gives another perspective on this remarkable time in history.

It was a special day for us - one that we won’t soon forget.

Garry at Anzac Cove	Anzac Cover from Turkish strong point	Lone Pine Cemetary
Lord Carey’s words	Soldier at arms, near Turkish cemetary	Turkish soldier cemetery
Trenches	Turkish soldier carrying Allied wounded	Story of the Turkish soldier